{"id":165,"date":"2013-10-20T10:55:34","date_gmt":"2013-10-20T15:55:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/makecoolthings.com\/?p=165"},"modified":"2013-10-26T11:38:41","modified_gmt":"2013-10-26T16:38:41","slug":"week-42-2013-pcb-process-revisited","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/makecoolthings.com\/?p=165","title":{"rendered":"Week 42, 2013 – PCB Process Revisited"},"content":{"rendered":"

So, as some of you know, I’ve had no end to trouble producing printed circuit boards\u00a0(PCBs)<\/em>; there’s always some damn thing that isn’t quite right… \u00a0Toner transfer is always a crapshoot, quality-wise. \u00a0And photo-resist is iffy because my laser printer can print good high-density\u00a0positives<\/em>, but not negatives, and my CraftRobo can’t cut rubylith fine enough for the kind of PCBs I’m making…<\/p>\n

I’m left with two options; \u00a0Screen-printing resist to the board. (Since burning screens is a positive image process)<\/em>\u00a0 Or! Using lithographic film in an emulsion-to-emulsion contact exposure with my laser printer transparencies to yield perfect high-contrast negative films to expose the dry film laminated photo-resist on the PCBs with. \u00a0(I can also use lithographic ‘duplicating film’ to turn so-so positive transparencies into film positives with perfect contrast.)<\/em>
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Right now I’m just waiting on money for supplies. \u00a0Like a hundred bucks in chemicals, film, and darkroom stuff.<\/p>\n

In the meantime, here’s some YouTube links!<\/p>\n